Pattern for garments



F. KOEWING.

PATTERN FOR GARMENTS. APPLICAfION FILED JUNE 14. I919. I 1,419,634, PatentedJune 13, 1922.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

LADIES COAT smuty UNDER Sl EEVE "2345- sue-s4- LADIES com 6 Z I n alsrouusik 2 g l 9 I n I I z M O I g M23145-S1zE-34 :1 LAD :5 GOAT -4 45-9IZE-3 LADIES /GOAT 1 Z9 Invnfar arr r FRANK KOEWING, OF WEST ORANGE, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGN OR TO KOEWING PAT TERNS, INC., 015 NEW YORK, N. Y.

, A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

PATTERN FOR GARMENTS.

ll,419,fi3f4=.

' Application filed June 14,

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, FRANK KOEWING, a citizen of the United States of America, residing at West Orange, county of Essex, State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Patterns for Garments, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to paper patterns for garments and comprises an improved process of making such patterns and the product of such process.

The preferred form of my invention and an example of the best embodiment thereof at present known to me is illustrated in the accompanying two sheets of drawing in which Fig. 1 is a plan view of part of a complete pattern out along the broken line 1, and

Fig. l is a similar view of the remainder of the pattern out along the broken line 7*.

The patterns are preferably printed on, and 'then cut from, a continuous roll ofpaper, Y, in continuous rotation, by a cylinder press,.of indefinite length and variable width, to meet requirements. Each complete pattern, when printed and out from the roll is folded, put in envelopes, and is then ready for sale.

The paper is to be made with integral, or printed, longitudinal lines provided with some pointed devices, such as arrows, pointing in one direction, Z, interchanging with a separate simple design such as a flower Z pointing in the opposite direction-these lines being parallel to the marginal edges of the roll of paper, alternating with other parallel, but continuous, plain lines X, or with any other equivalent arrangement. The purpose of the arrows Z is to point in the downward direction in which the nap, if there be any in the material of which the garment is to be made, is to run in every part of the garment when out and assembled, while the flower design Z is to point in the upward direction in which the figure design 7 element, if there be any in the material, is

. tinuous lines to run throughout the whole garment symmetrically and concurrently when 1 completed. The gprpose of the alternating, conis to parallel the lengthwise threads, or warp, of the material, so that when the pattern is laid upon the goods in such manner as to secure the alignment of the continuous lines in the pattern with the .parts thereto.

Specification of Letters Patent. Patented June 13, 1922.

1919. *Serial No. 304,338.

lengthwise threads in the material, the arrows point downward with the nap and the flowers pointing upward to correspond with any figure design running in one direction on the material, it bein understood thatin standard practice such gure design on cloth points in a direction opposite that in which the nap runs. This will assure that said features in all parts, when the latter are assembled to form the garment, shall run substantially parallel and harmoniously throughout the completed garment.

Each complete pattern part contains, in addition to the longitudinal arrows Z, and flower design Z, and alternating parallel lengthwise lines X, printed outlines of the various parts of the garment, serially numbered; also, on every pattern part, the catalogue number, size, and name of garment, seam and outlet seam lines, waist-line, plaits and other details with their respitlitive names as shown in the drawing, as wel asa card of instructions for the proper-construction of each. garment part and joining adjacent Of course, the parallel lines X, could be omitted and the arrows or other marks relied on to show direction of wa threads.

The outlines of the various garment sections (parts 1, 2, etc.) are arranged on the plate for printing on the paper in such manner as to leave as little waste space as possible consistent with the functioning of the arrow and flower design, as well as the parallel, longitudinal, lengthwise lines to correspond with the stated features and lines of the material as shown in the drawing.

Obviously the parallel warp lines, nap and figure-design marks, might be printed at the same time that the pattern outlines are printed, but I prefer the method first above suggested of having these first mentioned lines and marks, which may be called the textile features, made integral with the paper bywatermarking, as it contrasts them from the pattern outlines, and renders both clearer to the users eye.

Matching, or joining, marks V shaped,

with a letter within the V, illustrated in the must be registered, or matched when the parts are assembled to form the garment. Ateach matching mark is also shown the number of the part containing the corresponding duplicate letter, as an additional convenience and aid in locating the proper pattern part.

Seam lines and outlet seam lines are printed and designated by name, as well as such other helpful details as waist-lines, plaits, etc., as shown in the drawing; likewise there is provided at all curved outlet seam lines, a series of short dotted lines, Z, Z, running at right angles from or substantially normal to the outer edge of the pattern part to the outlet seam line showing where thepattern may be cut and folded back to the seam line to facilitate said seam line being marked on the material, (as by pinning, penciling, threading, or chalking) without injuring the pattern part, so that it may be used again on the underlying, duplicate piece of goods.

The edge of the pattern sheet which is to be appliedto the fo ded edge of the doubled material has this information printed thereon, the same method being followed as to the selvedge, as shown in the drawing.

The card of instructions, printed on, and applying to each part, is of particular advantage to the user of the pattern, forby this meansthe instructions are placed where most convenient and can be condensed into a few terse, easily comprehended sentences. Everything aiding in the construction of the garment being thus provided on the'difi'erent pattern parts where it is most handy, all is made so clear that the merest novice will find the otherwise complicated task of cutting and making up a arment from the pattern made easy and mistakes practically impossible.

The complete pattern being printed on a I sheet of paper or similar material, hundreds of thousands of copies can be rapidly produced at slight cost for each pattern.

When'the purchaser uses the pattern she can instantly lay the entire sheet accurately on a piece of goods folded lengthwise of corresponding width and length, (thereby avoiding the task of arranging the various parts one by one, on the goods) and by cut ting both the pattern and material atone operation, along the exterior or outer lines of the several parts, produce duplicate garment sections which, when assembled and fitted will form a perfect garment. This can be done without technical knowledge and with the least labor and waste of material. The sheet should be firmly pinned to the material within the seam lines of each part (1, 2, etc.) before cutting so that the pattern parts, when cut, will adhere to, and stay in position on the duplicate sections of material, and the matching marks (A, B, etc.),

ing sleeve portions, and is shown in the drawing, consisting of the words elbow line and associated marks.

In case the goods to be used are of difl'erent width than that of the pattern sheet, or if the user prefers, for any reason to do so, as for instance, when making the garment from material that has already done service as a garment of another shape or kind, the pattern parts are to be first cut out, the separate parts being then arranged and pinned, in the ordinary Way, on such new, or previously used goods. In such event the ad vantages of the guiding parallel, longitudinal lines for application to the lengthwise thread, the arrows for the nap, or the flower design for the figure or design elements of the material, as well as the lettered matching marks and other features described above will be-as potent aids and safe guards as in the other procedure.

I am aware that it has heretofore been proposed to mark on pattern parts lines indicating the lengthwise or warp threads, but this was done after the outlines of the pattern parts had been marked on plain paper, those of each part, regardless of the direction of the lengthwise lines of the other parts, as they happened to lie, arranged most economically as to space occupied. The result was that the several parts could not be placed in alignment on the garment material until after. they were cut from the sheet. Such procedure was so impracticable and costly as to make it commercially useless. By first providing, as I do, paper containing the longitudinal lines, and adjusting the pattern parts to these lines, instead of adjusting the lines to the parts, I eliminate the separate marking of these lines and reduce thecost of roducing the patterns to a minimum.

l aving described my invention, I claim as new:

1. The process of forming printed patterns for garments, which comprises preparing a sheetof paper containing a series of longitudinal lines, parallel to the marginal edges of the paper on which said patterns are to be printed and also printing on said paper the outlines of the various parts of the pattern so arranged that when the pattern is laid upon the cloth, with the longitudinal lines parallel to the warp threads of the cloth and the cloth out along the pattern outlines, the Warp threads of all the parts will be substantially parallel one to another.

when the parts are assembled to form a garment.

2. A garment pattern having a direction guide marked thereon indicating the direction corresponding to that, in which any nap on the material should run in every part when the parts are joined to form the gar ment.

3. A garment pattern having a direction guide marked thereon indicating the direction corresponding to that in which any uninvertible figure design in the material should runin every part when the parts are joined to form the garment.

4, A pattern for garments comprising a sheet of material having the various outlined parts of the garment marked'and numbered thereon, each numbered part also having marginal joining marks adapted to register with identical marks on another part when the parts are properly assembled to form a garment, each pair of marks designed to so register being marked with identical distinguishing characters, and the mark on each memberof each pair being numbered to correspond to the number of the part bearing the mark with which it is to register.

5. The. process ofv forming assembled, printed patterns for garments which com-- ing a series of-longitudinal lines, parallel to the marginal edges thereof, said llnes being.

adapted to be placed parallel to the warp thread of the cloth or material, and also printing on said paper the outlines of the various parts of the pattern, so arranged and assembled in accurate position relative to the said longitudinal lines that when the pattern sheet is laid upon cloth of appropriate width, and length, and cloth and pattern parts cut out together, along the pattern outlines, theset of parts to form the garment will be ready to be joined with the warp threads substantially parallel one to another in all parts when so joined, substantially as described. I

6. The product of the herein described process, beingan assembled paper pattern for garments printed on a sheet of paper having longitudinal lines parallel to the marginal edges of the paper Withthe parts of said pattern so arranged relative to said lines that when the entire pattern sheet is laid upon a bolt of cloth with the marginal edges of the bolt parallel to-the longitudinal lines on the pattern, the cloth cut according to the pattern and the parts joined to form a garment, the warp threads of the cloth will run symmetrically and concurrently throughout said garment.

FRANK KO'EWI-NG, 

